Stone Island: How The Brand Has Evolved – Woodhouse Clothes
Stone Island’s model ethos has been set in stone since the 1980s, however the label’s dedication to research signifies that their assortment is at all times recent and exciting. With a dedicated world following and a again catalogue of 40,000 distinctive garments, Stone Island is in a league of its personal.
When CEO, Carlo Rivetti, was requested why Stone Island’s model has remained so strong he mentioned:
“Stone Island has at all times remained true to itself, with out concessions. And so we have been in a position to rejuvenate our goal market of consumers; we reach out both to our historic customers, those who have faithfully stayed with us for thirty years, but also to the youthful crowd, to the brand new generations of right this moment.”
While different brands have branched out to include different kinds or expanded into unrelated markets, Stone Island has remained focused, with just the label’s continuing research into fabrics and dyes pushing the brand ahead.
Stone Island Tradition
Ice Jacket Wool Blend in Thermo-delicate Fabric
If you happen to look back on the last thirty years, the brand started with jackets made from thick truck tarpaulin and continued to create heat-sensitive fabrics and Kevlar designs. It can be hard to predict what comes subsequent and that’s what makes the brand so exciting to comply with.
The energy of the Stone Island, alongside the undeniable model of their clothing, has created a cult following – including celebrities comparable to Noel Gallagher, Peter Hook and Chris Lowe. The model has also been associated with soccer fans – and often football hooliganism – however the label has been fast to dissociate itself from the latter.
Inside Stone Island
As CEO Carlo Rivetti provides fans a video tour around Stone Island HQ, he describes his dyeing facility as a ‘kitchen’. Jackets are ‘cooked’ in ninety – 140 degrees and ‘recipes’ are followed to create every shade of colour.
However, to most people, Stone Island’s dyeing facility seems more like a chemistry lab. With row upon row of bottles, there’s a splash of nearly every colour possible, and with spectacular machinery and weighty recordsdata of formulation, the ‘Colour Lab’ is evidently a spot for experimentation.
And with so many colours packed into one room, Carlo Rivetti even claims it’s the closest thing to a renaissance painter’s workshop within the twenty first century.
Texture and color are the place to begin for each jacket. From there, the designers experiment to create a design that works. A few of their dyeing techniques may cause as much as 50% shrinkage, so getting the design proper is a sophisticated process.
Each garment is made from a variety of different fabrics, all of which react to dyeing in a unique method – both in how they absorb color or shrink throughout the process. Every stone island poncho jacket is sort of a journey of scientific discovery – and with their archive of 20,000 garments on site, you can stroll via the history of their experimentation.
Over Thirty Years of Design
In 1982, Stone Island was launched by Massimo Osti, with their Tela Stella vary. The brand’s name came from the pages of Joseph Conrad’s novels – amidst hundreds of words, ‘stone’ and ‘island’ had been the most commonly occurring, and so the brand was born.
The primary collection was the results of analysis into a thick truck tarpaulin, which was resin-handled to be red on one facet and blue on the other.
1983 – 1986
Carlo Rivetti joined Stone Island in 1983, already an enthusiastic fan of the brand. By 1984, the collection had advanced to include jumpers, trousers, t-shirts and shirts.
It was additionally in 1984 that a second signature Stone Island fabric was launched, Raso Gommato – a cotton satin of navy origin, with polyurethane coating.
1987 – 1988
By means of research into heat-sealed PVC, Stone Island developed Glazed Silk Light, which is shiny trilobite nylon coated in PVC. The effect was a thick and glazed look.
1989 – 1991
In 1989, Stone Island launched the bottom-breaking Ice Jacket. With the event of a heat-sensitive fabric, Stone Island created a jacket which modified colour with the temperature.
From yellow to blue and from inexperienced to white, the Ice Jacket was a actually futuristic concept. Stone Island developed the design further to create patterned jackets which lost their pattern in the cold, becoming icy white with freezing temperatures.
Subsequent, Stone Island developed a highly reflective Japanese fabric, which achieved its luminescent glow through a coating of hundreds of micro glass spheres. Inspired by work security jackets, this assortment was extraordinarily eye-catching and was even able to replicate mild from very weak sources.
1993 – 1996
This was a time of nice change for Stone Island – Massimo Osti left the label and in his place, Englishman, Paul Harvey, joined the staff and pushed the analysis forward.
With an injection of recent ideas, the next few years noticed a huge number of revolutionary fabrics getting into the colour Lab. The primary was System Steel, a nylon canvas bonded to a polyurethane movie.
Extensive research additionally created Oltre, a superb nylon fabric with an ultra-shiny coating.
1997 – 1998
The research continued at a relentless tempo, and in 1997, Stone Island designers applied a Reverse Color Course of technique on the Raso Gommato fabric. First printed in black, the fabric then faded using a corrosion approach to be later over-dyed.
Nylana, a thick nylon canvas used to line tanks, additionally turned a part of the collection during these years.
1999 – 2001
On the turn of the millennium, the Stone Island design staff had been incredibly busy. Launching stone island poncho an enormous number of recent fabrics and designs in simply two years, together with the Pure Steel Shell Silver and Pure Steel Shell Bronze (as proven above). These parkas were created with either a hundred% stainless steel or a hundred% bronze metallic mesh, bonded to fabric.
Stone Island’s designers next moved onto a material which is five occasions stronger than the identical weight in steel: Kevlar. As pictured above, Stone Island found a technique to dye this seemingly not possible materials via including a nylon mesh and a polyurethane coating.
Initially designed for use on aeroplane circuit boards, Stone Island began to make use of silver spray on their assortment of fantastic polyester jackets, including a vacuum seal of a hundred% stainless seal.
The brand additionally launched their Ventile vary, utilizing a army textile which was 100% cotton and developed for British fighter pilot’s overalls in the Second World Battle.
In 2002, the vary continued to broaden, with jackets engineered to look flat with a sequence of folds and seams including detail.
Another success story from this yr was the sunshine Jacket. Continued research perfected the design – a white jacket with fibre optic mesh inserts that gentle up with blue light.
The design group additionally experimented with varied layers of meshes, which revealed the internal building of the jacket.
2003 – 2005
Stone Island perfected their Compact Process to create extraordinarily dense supplies, which are boiled at 130 degrees after which shrink by up to 50%.
Mussoal Gommata was also launched, developed by laminating extremely-light cotton muslin to a matte polyurethane film.
2006 – 2007
The David TC Fabric was introduced, consisting of polyester, polyamide and Japanese microfiber, which was then dyed below strain at 130 levels.
Creating their portfolio of reflective jackets, Stone Island designed the Antiquated Reflective.
Paul Harvey left Stone Island in 2008 and Carlo Rivetti stepped into his sneakers as Artistic Director. And in the identical year, the brand’s affiliation with Aitor Throup was formed, creating the Stone Island Shadow Collection.
2009 – 2011
Creating on their previous heat-reactive Ice Jacket, Stone Island created a camouflage jacket which loses its sample within the cold.
The crew also developed a new textile: Waxed Ice, which was cotton moleskin containing thermo-delicate quartz and graphite.
2012 – 2013
For the S/S season in 2012, Stone Island launched the Prismatic Muslin, a lightweight cotton muslin, which was treated with coloured resins before the fabric was laminated to provide a prism-effect polyurethane movie. The material can then be double-dyed to create a wide range of vibrant colours.
Subsequent, Stone Island created the Hydrophobic Therapy, a process which creates a garment that’s highly water-repellent and environmentally pleasant.
2012 marked the 30th anniversary of the brand and celebrated with STONEISLAND30, a major exhibition at Stazione Leopolda in Florence. Alongside the exhibition, three symbolic garments had been created to replicate the historical past of Stone Island, including a re-edition of Tela Stella.
Thirty years’ of research and 40,000 garments later, their present A/W collection displays this rich history of design. Browse the Stone Island A/W rangeand to see what the model has to supply this 12 months.
Garment Dyed Crinkle Reps NY
What’s next for the Model?
With a continuing drive in the direction of creating new colours and supplies, Stone Island is a brand always capable of surprise. When requested what the longer term holds, Carlo Rivetti mentioned:
“We get impressed by folks, structure and design. At present we’re at the moment learning some supplies used in the automobile business. Throughout the Olympics, the outfits the athletes wear are very technical, which is also inspirational.
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