Stone Island’s Heat Reactive Jacket
Massimo Osti (1944 – 2005) was an Italian garment engineer and fashion designer most well-known as the founding father of the apparel manufacturers Stone Island and C.P. Firm. Osti’s merchandise were a mixture of his personal improvements and design concepts he received from studying navy clothes, work-, and sportswear.
1 Early years
5 Product improvements 5.1 Four-process printing on fabric (1970)
5.2 Garment dyeing (1979)
5.3 Brushed wool (1987)
5.Four Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
5.5 Ice jacket (1991)
5.6 Micro (1992)
5.7 Thermojoint (1993)
5.Eight Technowool (1995)
Massimo Osti cheap stone was born and raised in Bologna, Italy. He grew to become a graphic designer and worked in the advertising enterprise. His profession within the trend business began within the early 1970s, when he designed a T-shirt collection that includes placed prints. He was the first to use new techniques like the 4-color process and silkscreen that are used for producing T-shirt. Following the success of this first T-shirt collection, he accepted the provide to design an entire Men’s assortment and grew to become an fairness accomplice in the corporate he would name ‘Chester Perry’ (later renamed the ‘C.P. Firm’).
During this period, Osti laid the foundations for a inventive philosophy totally based on experimentation. The first innovation he could be liable for within the clothes trade was garment dyeing, a process that fully revolutionized the sphere. It was primarily based upon the concept of various supplies in completed garments reacting in a different way to the identical dye bath. Osti found that garment dyeing creates interesting tone-on-tone results. This specific dyeing approach turned typical for Osti’s C.P. Firm. In 1981, he launched “Boneville”, a new model alongside the prevailing CP Firm and CP Company Baby collections.
Ongoing research on finishing techniques and supplies led to yet another clothes line in 1982: Stone Island. The first collection was made totally from a revolutionary new fabric that inspired from the tarps used by truck drivers. The ‘used’ look of this extremely resistant, two-tone, reversible fabric was obtained via Stone Island Sweater Collection Button stone washing. This new collection was so profitable that it offered out at every location inside 10 days.
In 1984, Osti relinquished his shares of CP Firm to GFT, but stayed on as president. He and his group devoted themselves to product growth and communication methods for the corporate. In 1985, he became the editor of CP Journal, an additional-massive format catalog/magazine that was sold at newspaper stands. It featured pictures of every garment within the CP Company collections and visualized the C.P. lifestyle perfectly. A circulation of forty,000 copies per assortment proved that this unusual advertising device was indeed effective. It started a development that will later be adopted by many different companies in the industry.
1987 was an vital 12 months in Osti’s profession. He invented and presented Rubber Flax and Rubber Wool – linen and wool with a thin, rubber coating. The rubber made the supplies waterproof, improved their resistance and added a completely new feel and appear to the garments. In the same year Osti experimented with brushed combed wool for the first time. In the present day all mills use this procedure for processing woolen textiles, the identical process Osti invented in 1987.
The 12 months additionally noticed the delivery of the shade altering Ice Jacket. In collaboration with ITS, Osti employed state-of-the-art technological research to create this new fabric which modified color by temperature variations. That same 12 months, his constant commitment to experimentation earned Massimo Osti an invite to characterize the Italian clothes business at an event commemorating the 750th anniversary of Berlin’s founding, the 150th anniversary of textile manufacturing and his own fifteenth 12 months within the business. For the occasion, an exhibit was held contained in the Reichstag building in Berlin.
In 1988, Massimo Osti’s designs developed a brand new technique of communication with the public by way of the CP Firm sponsorship of the Mille Miglia race. The corporate additionally showed its support of the Rainforest Basis, the foundation spearheaded by Sting and Raoni, chief of the Kayapo tribe in Amazonia, whose goal was to lift worldwide consciousness of deforestation within the Amazon Rainforest.
1991 marked the opening of a CP store in New York’s historic Flatiron Building, plus the launch of yet one more iconic garment inside the Stone Island line: the Reflective Jacket. This jacket was made from an innovative material, which was the fruit of technological analysis conducted in Japan. The fabric mixed waterproof fabric with a very thin layer of glass microspheres, which reflected even the weakest gentle sources with astonishing effectiveness.
In 1993, a partnership with Allegri gave rise to Left Hand. This new model was characterized by another exclusive material, a non-woven fabric made from pressed polyester and nylon fibers which, like felt, might be used with uncooked edge stitching. The following 12 months, Osti founded Massimo Osti Manufacturing, an organization that might reap the advantages of the experience and successes accrued from 20 years’ worth of formal and technical improvements. In 1995, the ST ninety five line was launched and in 1996, Osti began a collaboration with Superga, which consisted in designing a collection of picture-defining garments.
Just two years later in 1998, a new company was based to supply and distribute the OM Undertaking brand, the collaboration with the Frattini Group. This new line of clothing would even be characterized by the use of revolutionary fabrics:
– Electric-j – a extremely resistant materials fabricated from polyester and copper fibers
– Cool Cotton – whose pure look is derived from its cotton component while its other element
– Cool max – a hollow fiber that absorbs bodily moisture and wicks it outwards
– Mag Defender – a canvas made from polyester and carbon fibers whose highly resistant weave shields its wearer from magnetic fields
– Steel – an “urban armor” featuring a nylon canvas which is woven with twisted cotton and stainless steel, making it highly resistant to cuts and tears.
In 1999, Massimo Osti began the collaboration with Dockers Europe to design a new line of technical pants called Equipment for Legs. Of the technical materials used in this assortment, a special blend of Kevlar stood out specifically; its increased softness and functionality made it appropriate to its application in garment production.
Amongst Osti’s final initiatives was the ICD line. Created in 2000 thanks to a collaboration with Levi’s, it offered a vast array of excessive performance technical outerwear. This assortment was then supplemented by the ICD+ line which, thanks to an settlement with Philips, featured outwear garments which came geared up with a cell phone, mp3 participant, and accompanying headphones and microphone which have been all wired to the garment itself. It was the world’s first commercial instance of wearable technology.
Massimo Osti died in 2005 and his legacy lives on at this time via Ed Lehan. Additionally the Massimo Osti Archive, a textile archive which includes 5,000 garments and over 50,000 fabric samples from roughly 300 textile mills and garment ending companies from around the world.
Four-process printing on fabric (1970)
A Bologna-based mostly company commissioned Massimo Osti to design printed T-shirts, something he had never carried out before. On the age of 25, Osti was in close contact with the social and artistic movements of the time and profoundly aware of the modifications going down in society. On the time of his first forays into the world of trend, Osti’s background in advertising led him to use his graphics know-how as a starting point for tackling his first challenges. “For these T-shirts I used processes for printing on paper to get the completed consequence, techniques like silkscreen, placed prints, four-course of printing, photocopy, and many others. It was the primary time something like that was executed in Italy. I remember that I needed to silkscreen the first T-shirts myself earlier than convincing the technician to do them”
Garment dyeing (1979)
“I found that two totally different materials absorbed and reacted otherwise to the dye when dyed concurrently, thereby creating attention-grabbing ‘tone-on-tone’ effects.” That is the premise of garment dyeing, a course of that revolutionized the complete trade at the time, both due to the unusual look it produced and due to the numerous lower in costs it represented.
Main traits: each garment is dyed, as a substitute of the supplies they have been product of. Fascinating ‘tone-on-tone’ results, and simplification of dyeing course of.
Brushed wool (1987)
Osti took this special course of, which was originally used on cotton, and experimented with it on wool until he refined the process through analysis and tailored it particularly to this noble fiber, revolutionizing the industry.
Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
These materials, created by Osti, grew to become extremely popular within the textile trade. They took noble and traditional fabrics like linen and wool and granted them a new look and texture, allowing them to drape and fall in a different way. The particular rubber coating not only enhanced their natural traits, but additionally grants increased functionality, equivalent to resistance to water and permits them to stay adaptable to patterns.
Major characteristics: classic materials looked renewed and responded in a brand new approach to put on; additionally they grew to become extra weatherproof.
Ice jacket (1991)
A jacket made from a revolutionary material that modifications color with temperature variations resulting from its special chemical composition. The “Ice Jacket” is also extremely waterproof and windproof.
Fundamental traits: jacket adjustments color by temperature variation. *e.g., pink to gray)
Key-item: First ICE Jacket 1992
This fabric was first presented within the LEFT HAND assortment and is fabricated from pressed microfiber and nylon fibers. The pressing is a traditional technique, initially used to make paper. This course of grants the fabric an unmistakable “deerskin” hand and excellent breath ability.
Primary traits: natural deerskin look, however hotter feel.
This materials was also used in the LEFT HAND assortment. Its major traits are complete resistance to water and put on and up to 80% safety from nuclear radiation.
Used for the first time in the F/W 1996 collection by “Massimo Osti Production,” this mixture of wool and nylon jersey is wear-resistant and preserves the breathability, naturalness and durability of wool.
Chester Perry (1971-77)
C.P. Child (1978-ninety three)